Saturday, 9 April 2011

Cycling through heaven

Clifford's personalised bicycle
Jacquie's bike, with a typo. :o)

It’s a brisk Saturday morning as we make our way up to Washington Square. Napa Valley Bike tours is a refreshing change of pace to the normal booze cruise. It’s a chance to really experience Napa, not just for its wineries, but its geography and climate. Yes, it can be done. 

Each group is assigned a tour guide, and for us, it's James, a chef who cycles in his spare time. Having grown up in Napa, James has a large presence, almost a Jeff Bridges-ness about him as his Californian drawl is pleasurable, like a loofah over calloused feet. His attention to detail is reassuring as seat heights are adjusted and safety tips are run through. 





It’s a small group of 9 people and our little half day entourage makes its way following James as we cycle through rural Napa. It's an exhilarating feeling to cover so much ground and the beautiful scenery. Periodically we stop and gather around James as he brings to our attention points of interest, and describes Napa and the environs. See that barren lump of hay there? That used to be a family-run winery. And that tree to our right? It used to sprout pink flowers till last summer...


A sun-dappled resting spot at Steltzner.

Getting off to a good start at our first tasting, at the Steltzner winery. 

After an easy ride through sunny Yountville, we arrive at the first winery, Steltzner (www.steltzner.com). For just $10 a pop, we were given a generous pours of 4 wines. 

Regusci (www.regusciwinery.com) was up next, an impressive chateau-like structure rising from the top of a short flight of stone stairs. An overweight Corgi waited for us, on her back, with all fours in the air. With postcards of her being sold in the tasting room, and a coffee table book with pictures of her prominently displayed, she's obviously the pride and joy of Regusci.

The Laird family estate, where lunch was served.

Some of the group are eager to taste, and others just to relax. The smart thing about this tour is that they’ve thought of everything – a van meets us at each stop, bringing our bags, and of course, helping us transport any wine we may see fit to purchase. They also provide lunch - we had a picnic of giant  sandwiches, salad and a gourmet garlic bean dip that had everyone asking for the source.
Lunch was on the scenic patio of the Laird family estate (www.lairdfamilyestate.com), which had a fantastic view and breeze. The pours here, though, were not too generous compared to Steltzner, who really took good care of us. 

Add caption



The gardens of Domaine Chandon

The cellar and souvenir shop at Domaine Chandon


Fourth and last stop of the day – Domaine Chandon (www.chandon.com), which, as one of the giants of sparkling wine in the world, needs no introduction. The sprawling grounds were gorgeous and modern, though not particularly personal. And how could it be? With buses constantly spewing hoards of visitors, Chandon is constantly filled with people strolling the gardens, dining at Etoile (the only winery restaurant in Napa Valley) and tasting at the Tasting Lounge, and buying wines and souvenirs. The tasting prices are steep here – at $18 for a classic tasting to $25 for a prestige cuvée tasting, it's well above the usual $10 to $15 tastings elsewhere.

Magnums of liquid gold at unbelievable prices, especially by Singaporean standards.

Definitely the smaller vineyards were more welcoming, personable and easier on the pocket. The large wine estates were grand in their architecture and pomp, and equally grand on the wallet. Conversely, their pours were droplets – though as we looked around us, the impersonality of the big vineyards didn't seem to deter the droves of tourists and wine lovers. We cycle past, content and looking forward to resting our weary but happy bones.



Domaine Chandon's back garden makes for a scenic stroll, flute of bubbly in hand.